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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.